OK, I've had many questions on this... The compressor has a three inch inlet, I have used P.V.C. pipe to tapper it to a four inch tube. The compressor has a six inch housing with this three inch inlet inside. It looks as if I have choked the intake down, which would be very bad, but really it is opened up and made larger towards the end of the P.V.C.  Y  tube. The flapper is made from redwood. It has all-thread through the center to form a butterfly valve. There is a metal tab welded to the all-thread to allow use. There will be a push-pull cable attached to this. The valve is in the four inch section, and should not constrict the airflow. This valve is going to be used for starting. A pull of the cable will close the valve, and allow only air from the leaf blower to be rammed into the turbocharger, thus spinning it up to speed. Once it fires off and reaches self acceleration speed, the valve will be completely opened allowing full use of outside inlet air. Then I won't have to hold the leaf blower onto the compressor as seen in the past video.

Looks confusing... Really it's simple. A 10,000 volt step up transformer is used for ignition. Using 12 volt's D.C. it is only possible to create an arc which will jump an air gap when the field around the transformer windings is collapsed, i.e. when it is swithced on and off, this is what the points on older car ignitions do. I have used an automobile flasher to power a contactor, or solenoid which switches on and off with the flasher. A seperate contactor must be used or it will burn the flasher up from too much current, I learned this by experience... There is an automobile capacitor (condensor) between the transformer and the ground. This prevents arcing at the contacts, and also makes the collapse of the field and the arc much more intense.  The power of this arc is much greater than am automobile ignition because of the larger oil furnace transformer and occurs about every half of a second. This was much easier for me to build, but if you are an electronics buff, and love the smell of soilder and boards you might find it easier to build a simple 555 electronic circuit.

This is just a picture of the exhaust tube without the E.G.T. (exhaust gas temperature) probe installed. I admit to be used for a purely thrust engine it will need to have some vanes to straighten the exhaust from the radial inflow turbine. This type of turbine is used for turbochargers because they can extract upwards of 90 percent of the exhaust energy, which is what you want in a turbocharger, so that is why they are not used on thrust turbines. The reason the tube is so long is because I want an Afterburner...

If you are building a turbine I want to stress that you need to be very careful with the fuels and oils you select, I use pure diesel, there is no need for additives. You want something that will burn hot. THERE ARE MORE BTU'S IN ONE GALLON OF DIESEL THAN ONE GALLON OF GASOLINE. If you are going to use octane boosters and gas or what not, you are only increasing the risk of an EXPLOSION... it may start easier, but this is VERY DANGEROUS. I use Exxon Turbo Oil which is used in turbine engines, only because we have crates of it at school, the flash point is so high that it is ridiculous, normal petroleum oils burn much easier and faster. You need a fire extinguisher within reach at any time you are running an turbojet engine. There is a danger involved in the fuels, the heat produced, the noise, the compression, and last but certainly not least the centrifugal force bound up in this little device. I host this page to document what I have done so that I might help others to understand how a turbo-jet engine operates, and in no way do I suggest that you build one if you are not capable of doing so safely.